GMT No 81- March 2023

DOES LOVE KEEP COUNT?

Two years after suffering its worst year since the quartz crisis, 2022 saw the watch industry break its all-time export record in terms of value. Admittedly, this success concerns the luxury watch segment and is not as clear-cut across all areas. In this issue, which coincides with the opening of Watches and Wonders, we analyze the trends in Haute Horlogerie, the leading role that Geneva now plays in this field. We also unveil some exclusives and take a look at the diversity of the Twelfth Art, the art of measuring time.

GMT is the reference Swiss watch magazine, reflecting the spirit of high watchmaking since 2000. GMT created the Geneva Watch Tour and institutionalized the art of measuring time as the 12th Art. Novelties, test bench, interviews, architecture, economics, leaders, events, GMT covers the universe of fine watchmaking and unveils the most amazing timepieces. Watch enthusiasts will appreciate the beautiful pictures featured in GMT just as its exclusive articles in English/French or English/German

Two main subjects occupying a third of this summer issue are bound to delight watch enthusiasts. First of all, we are inaugurating a first for the magazine with the blessing of Vacheron Constantin, which saw the entire editorial staff of GMT and our WorldTempus site converge on the Manufacture for a day of intensive multimedia creativity.

Reflétant l’esprit de la haute horlogerie depuis l’an 2000, GMT révèle chaque trimestre le meilleur de l’univers des montres mécaniques. L’architecture des montres, l’innovation des matériaux et des mouvements, la communication des marques, l’opinion de leurs leaders, les conseils aux collectionneurs, les coulisses des salons et des manufactures, GMT dévoile et défend l’art de la mesure du temps (le 12e Art) de manière riche et variée. Les passionnés d'horlogerie apprécieront les magnifiques photos de GMT, tout comme ses articles exclusifs en anglais/français ou anglais/allemand.



Alors que GMT fête cette année son 20e an­ niversaire, nous traversons une période extraordinaire pour l’horlogerie en parti­ culier. C’est un moment terrible pour le monde en général, dont les nations sont
secouées par la pan(dem)ique. Même dans le microcosme de la belle horlogerie mécanique, nous sommes poussés dans les limites de la résilience et de la créativité pour maintenir allumée la flamme de notre passion. Si vous pensiez que l’adolescence était un passage compliqué, le cap des vingt ans dans ces conditions n’est pas une siné­ cure! Qui a dit que la maturité était simple?
En tant que rédactrice en chef de WorldTempus, le petit frère digital de GMT (né un an plus tard!) appartenant à la même maison d’édition, je me tourne vers lui pour éclairer nos pas en ces temps ténébreux. Nous inspirant de sa philosophie (institutionnaliser l’art de la mesure du temps), nous avons mis en place sur worldtempus. com une nouvelle plateforme mettant en lumière les lan­ cements horlogers les plus récents, les créations les plus brillantes. Forts de leur luminescence, l’horizon nous parait ainsi plus dégagé.
Pour ses 20 ans, je souhaite à GMT un avenir radieux. Avec des bougies d’anniversaire, un feu d’artifice et des centaines de milliers d’écrans de téléphone scintillant de leurs vœux. C’est le propre de la lumière. Elle illumine, guide et inspire. Comme un magazine qui célèbre les plus beaux objets créés par l’ingéniosité humaine et la tradition. Bon anniversaire GMT, soit la lumière qui ne s’éteint jamais.

Ce dernier numéro de la deuxième décennie du troisième millénaire a une saveur particulière, un avant-goût de fête, et pas seulement parce qu’il paraît à la période des Fêtes de fin d’année. En 2020, GMT souffle 20 bougies de passion enflammée pour l’horlogerie. Comptez sur nous pour les célébrer. Symboliquement, nous créons une nouvelle rubrique dès cette édition pour inviter à notre table un grand Chef qui partage son rapport au temps quand il œuvre aux fourneaux. GMT va aussi étendre l’influence de la belle horlogerie sur de nouveaux territoires en créant de nouvelles licences notamment en Asie. Avec notre partenaire en ligne WorldTempus, le plus important site web horloger bilingue du monde, nous avons entamé la rédaction d’un livre culte sur 20 ans d’horlogerie depuis l’an 2000. Cet enthousiasme pour les valeurs du 12e Art (l’art de la mesure du temps) et cette volonté de les transmettre aux âmes les plus réceptives, GMT y contribue aussi en véhiculant les formidables initiatives de la Dubaï Watch Week, du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève et d’Only Watch qui ont permis de promouvoir la créativité de tant de marques l’automne passé. Au printemps, les nouvelles formules de Watches & Wonders Geneva et Baselworld vont dans ce sens également. Vous pourrez alors découvrir les nouveautés de Jaeger-LeCoultre, à qui nous consacrons la Une pour son lancement le plus spectaculaire de l’année écoulée. 2020 s’annonce donc bien pour GMT, pour qui les seules vraies complications seront purement mécaniques, et toute la rédaction vous souhaite une merveilleuse année à nos côtés.

PAR DES FEMMES, pour des femmes CHANEL 
Depuis l’enfance ma vie est imprégnée du charme envoûtant des magazines féminins de luxe : j’avais 14 ans lorsque j’ai tenu pour la première fois entre mes mains le Teen Vogue, puis j’ai évolué vers Vogue International et Vanity Fair. J’étais entourée de femmes sur papier glacé, dans la publicité, à la télévision et pourtant les femmes ne représentent que 10% des cadres supérieurs dans le secteur du luxe, en particulier l’horlogerie et la joaillerie. Voilà pourquoi ce LADY by GMT est spécial à mes yeux : c’est mon premier numéro en tant que nouvelle rédactrice en chef et, plus important encore, il est réalisé par des femmes pour des femmes. Donc où que vous regardiez dans cette publication, vous verrez des Femmes, avec un « F » majuscule. Des femmes en coulisses, devant la caméra et tenant la plume. Nous avons interviewé Caroline Scheufele, co-présidente et directrice artistique de Chopard, qui nous a donné un aperçu intéressant de son processus créatif. Nous avons travaillé avec une styliste, spécialement pour ce numéro, lors de notre séance photos inspirée par l’esthétique boho-chic du Melrose, un centre de bien-être au cœur de Genève créé par Melissa Schlemmer. Un grand merci à Brice Lechevalier, rédacteur en chef de GMT Magazine et directeur exécutif de GMT Publishing, de m’avoir fait confiance et permis de modeler le Lady à ma façon, et à Liah Millasson qui l’an dernier a accompli le gros du travail en remodelant Lady by GMT. Et un merci plus grand encore aux nombreuses femmes qui ont conseillé, écrit, édité et conçu ce numéro dans l’espoir de reproduire fidèlement la diversité de notre moitié de la population. 

L’ÉMOTION EN PLUS AUTOMNE 2019 
Ce n’est pas toujours le cas, mais chaque montre devrait générer de l’émotion. Tout d’abord pour celle ou celui qui la porte, mais également pour celles et ceux qui l’aperçoivent au poignet. Chaque automne, les amplificateurs d’émotions tels que le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève permettent à ces ondes positives de se propager plus loin, plus longtemps. Elles trouvent des relais dans d’autres ambassades de la belle horlogerie telles que le SIAR à Mexico ou la Dubaï Watch Week qui elles-mêmes apportent leur propre caisse de résonance dans ce concert du 12e Art (l’Art de la mesure du temps). Et tous les deux ans à la même époque, depuis 2005, le super générateur d’émotions Only Watch entre en scène, creusant son sillon de créativité hors norme et semant une trainée d’espoir, dans un grand élan de solidarité horlogère de Monaco à Genève en passant par tous les fuseaux. Profondément convaincu que l’horlogerie mécanique a une âme et que ces initiatives bienfaitrices la nourrissent, GMT leur rend hommage dans cette édition. A travers elles, il s’agit naturellement d’encourager les dizaines de marques de montres qui s’y associent et qui, ensemble, font chanter l’horlogerie d’une seule voix. Dans le brouhaha global d’un luxe saturé qui assourdit une clientèle déboussolée et sur-sollicitée, un message fort et vecteur d’émotions traduisant l’unité de la communauté horlogère servirait probablement de repère bienvenu, à l’automne comme au printemps, à l’occasion d’autres rendez-vous incontournables… Tendre la main ne devrait-il pas être un réflexe pour qui vit du poignet d’autrui ?

TRILOGIE ESTIVALE ÉTÉ 2019 
Les trois éléments que sont l’air, l’eau et la terre forment la ligne conductrice de cette parution estivale. Quatrième élément, le feu ne figure pas dans notre sélection mais est symbolisé par le soleil de l’été qui accompagne ce numéro plein d’énergies positives. GMT considère depuis longtemps que le temps constitue le cinquième élément, qui survit à tous les autres. Les instruments de mesure du temps conçus par les marques de montres voient leur ADN de plus en plus influencé par les quêtes de performance de l’homme dans l’air, sur terre et en mer. En vol, au volant, en plongée ou à la barre, la montre devient le prolongement de l’homme. Ou tout simplement lui procure le frisson de cette projection, ou l’allure de l’adepte averti. Or le plaisir compte tout autant que la performance. Combler l’hédoniste qui sommeille en chacun de nous devrait figurer sur la check-list des fonctionnalités indispensables à toute collection horlogère. La très grande majorité des modèles présentés dans cette parution estivale y parviennent, chacun à leur manière, à commencer par le chronographe GMT Octo Finissimo de Bvlgari en couverture, le plus fin du monde. C’est aussi la philosophie du Fine Watch Club, le premier club horloger international qui lève le voile sur son programme de la rentrée dans nos pages. Lui aussi s’inspire des trois éléments, en fixant un premier rendez-vous au Monaco Yacht Show pour y célébrer le lancement de la nouvelle odyssée Only Watch.

No, it wasn’t my forehead that caused this cluster of letters by crashing onto my laptop as I fell asleep. Nor did the keyboard unexpectedly switch to azerty mode. However, it was indeed during this transatlantic flight between Geneva and Miami that this acronym derived from TriBeCa came to me as I was trave­ling in the wake of the Watch Photo Awards. The exhibition of the 60 photos selected during the 2018 edition was first held in Geneva, then in Miami during Watches & Wonders – where I was then heading – and finally at Baselworld 2019 with which the publi­cation of this GMT edition coincides. Three flagship cities with intertwined destinies: Basel and Miami have been linked by Art Basel since 2002, Geneva and Basel by their watchmaking shows, which will be brought together again in the same period in 2020. GeMiBa. All three have shown the same benevolent attitude towards the Watch Photo Awards, a competition showcasing the talents of lovers of fine watchmaking in a fun and uncomplicated way as well as sharing them with a broad international community.
Sincere thanks to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and to BaselWorld for their confidence and spontaneity in hosting the Watch Photo Awards, whose 2019 edition took off in February and will continue through to July with six monthly themes. The winner of the February “White” theme won a week’s cruise for two, while in March two stays at the famous Basel hotel on the Rhine “Les Trois Rois” are up for grabs. It’s time to send the picture of your favorite watch to watch-photo-awards.com, until the end of July and from cities around the world !

WATCH WEEK Geneva


It’s not the SIHH, but it has one thing in common with the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie : the organizer. As announced in this issue 60, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie – in conjunction with the Geneva authorities – is launching the first WATCH WEEK Geneva from May 7th to 11th 2019. The range of participants will encompass watch brands as well as various public and private entities, including GMT Publishing. The key motivation behind this major unifying project, firmly focused on emotions and sharing, is a determination to promote watchmaking and its skills among a wide audience. These two values were also the driving force behind the launch of the Watch Photo Awards last spring and are reflected in the major feature articles of this winter edition. Emotions and sharing take center-stage in the report on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève; in the interview with the President of its Foundation, Raymond Loretan ; as well as in the three thematic photo portfolios to which we are treating readers of this year-end edition – especially the one we shot in Crans-Montana to launch the ski season. Emotions are reflected in sensory pleasures, which come into action with varying degrees of intensity depending
on the watches we wear, as you are about to discover in a few pages. Just as the watch is an experience for all the senses, the experience of reading a beautiful Swiss Made magazine also involves the pleasing rustle of the pages and their gentle caresses accompanying new landscapes revealed in each article !

Ladies First
Symbolically, the title of our 100% ladies’ special edition published for the first time ten years ago has reversed the order of its name : GMT Lady has thus now become LADY by GMT. This metamorphosis runs very deep, involving a complete makeover of its layout,  content and editorial team. The outcome no longer reads like a single watchmaking magazine dedicated to watches for women and jewelry, but more like a national women’s magazine (of which so few remain !) focusing on feminine watchmaking and jewelry (it is still the only one).

Black and light
Ever-present in watchmaking as in life itself, black is also the October theme of the Watch Photo Awards : an initiative launched by our publishing house and echoed by media around the world for the past six months. The 60 watch photos selected since are on show from November 1st to 11th at the Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève, as part of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) exhibition for which GMT is also serving as media partner. Congratulations to the devotees of fine watchmaking whose photos are thus published and displayed. While black is the guiding thread of this fall issue, the GPHG will be very much in the limelight at the prize-giving. GMT presents the competition favorites and gifts the official catalog to its readers, who will be able to follow the ceremony live on worldtempus.com, which will provide an analysis of the results. Our editorial team is also turning the spotlight on several iconic collections that are nonetheless underestimated by the public at large. The one appearing on our magazine cover, the Grande Seconde by Jaquet Droz, shows the moon in a whole new light… Recurrently featured in the GPHG, the Octo Finissimo by Bulgari submits its skeleton version to the discerning gaze of our in-house watchmaker. In an entirely different style, the Heart Beat collection symbolizes the rise of a champion of affordable watchmaking celebrating its 30th anniversary this year : Frédérique Constant. And if the mention of these twin themes has sparked thoughts of Luminor and black dials, the new CEO of Panerai will be shedding light on these brand signatures. Speaking of which, the faces of millions of fans light up at the mere mention of two legendary names : Patek Philippe and Rolex. Many of them may however not be well acquainted with these respective approaches to chronometry (precision timekeeping) taken by these Maisons, a field that we analyze in a dedicated article. 

Summer here we come with an air-land-sea trilogy synonymous with vacation time, as well as with fields of expression explored by a number of watch brands, and a compass for our editorial team throughout this edition. As slim and light as a puff of breeze, the Octo Finissimo on our cover sets the tempo, while the fourth world record it earns Bulgari does not prevent management from keeping their feet on the ground. The same goes for Thierry Esslinger, the recently appointed CEO of Breguet, who evokes the Marine adventure and the reason for which Breguet’s commitment to the seas naturally also involves both air and land.
When Patek Philippe offers a new dual-time watch designed for pilots, we immediately take the controls to offer our readers a top-flight analysis. The staging of these three elements naturally also applies to our in-house photoshoot portfolio, revealing 2018 new models, some of which as exclusives or in preview mode. The transition from photography to watch photo competitions is a natural one that we invite you to take by participating in the first of its kind for an international public, on watch-photo-awards.com. The platform is extremely user-friendly, participation is simple, the prizes are well worth striving for and the finest talents will have multiple chances to earn recognition. The Watch Photo Awards were launched in May by a panel of specialized media under the impetus of GMT, and each year until October, they offer a chance to share your enthusiasm for your watch and to win a weekend for two in one of Geneva’s five-star hotels. Make the most of the summer to give your watch a starring role on air, land or sea.

Issue 86

Issue 85

Issue 84

Issue 83

Issue 82

Issue 81

Issue 80

Issue 79

Issue 78

Issue 77

Issue 76

Issue 75

Issue 74 (Lady by GMT)

Issue 73

Issue 72

Issue 71

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GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces(French-English) - Issue 81

GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces(French-English) - Issue 81

In this issue

GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces(French-English) Description: