Spirit in The Sky: Aviation, Exploration And Historical Design Inspire New Longines Spirit Collection

Many historically minded watch mavens know that Longines timed Charles Lindbergh’s record-setting transatlantic flight in 1927.

Inspired By Ancestry

Blancpain’s Villeret collection channels the haute horlogerie roots of the world’s oldest watchmaking brand and continues to innovate with an array of grand and practical complications.

Postwar And Modern: Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Collection

The two new 1940s-inspired pieces called the Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph and the Heritage Classic Tuxedo Time only take their inspiration from the postwar period and the sector-dial designs that were popular at the time.

Circles of Time

Fifteen years after its introduction, the Lange 1 Time Zone has now been equipped with a new manufacture caliber. The time in two different time zones can be read intuitively from the dial. But this watch offers much more, as we can confirm after scrutinizing one we were able to preview before the watch’s official launch.

Customizing Time

As more and more of today’s consumers look for watches that make a truly personal statement, the art of customization is in rising demand. Here we offer one of the most comprehensive looks at customizing time.

BRONZE AGE

Following the current trend, Oris has encased its design icon, the Big Crown Pointer Date, in warm bronze — not only the case but the bezel, the namesake big crown, and even the dial. We tested the watch in real-life situations.

The Watchmakers' Award

Created in 2001, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has established itself as the most important award show in the industry. A look back at how the event started, the performance of the competing brands and, just as important, how much the event has evolved over the last two decades.

Celestial Being: Astronomic Souveraine From F.P. Journe

For Only Watch 2019, François-Paul Journe debuted a spectacular prototype with a unique 44-mm case in tantalum, a blue chrome dial and a movement in 18K rose gold.

Between the Sky and Sea: The New Breitling Chronomat And Superocean Collection

The first Breitling Chronomat made its debut in 1948, and instantly made history as the first wristwatch to incorporate the aviator’s slide-rule bezel that is now the hallmark of another Breitling model, the Navitimer.

PERFECTING A MATCH

Water resistant, automatic winding, chronometer-certified, a date window — in 1945, the Datejust was the first watch that could offer all this — just about perfect. Nevertheless, Rolex has continued to improve upon it.

Customers are again placing more value on individualism. Small brands are becoming more attractive.

Based in the Black Forest region in Germany, Jörg Schauer has been making watches for 30 years. With his two watch brands, Schauer and Stowa, he has built up quite a following online. Here’s a look back at where it all started and what Schauer has planned for 2020. Questions by Rüdiger Bucher

Rarefied Air

The Breguet family revolutionized watchmaking in the 19th century and aviation in the 20th. The modern Type XX collection is the culmination of its multi-generational savoir faire in both fields.

Quick Getaway

It’s hard to believe that Grand Seiko has been on the international market just 10 years, since it’s celebrating its 60th birthday. Its Elegance GMT has a modern time-zone function and a high-speed automatic caliber that’s absolutely up to date.

APPEALING NEWCOMER

Fans of retro styling will like the Freedom 60 Chrono. This chronograph from the young Swiss brand Norqain certainly looks attractive, but what else does it do?

APEX DIVER

Blancpain’s latest version of the Bathyscaphe adds a new color and a no-date option to the brand’s popular range of dive watches. Additionally, the 50-piece limited edition supports conservation efforts to protect the critically endangered great hammerhead shark. WatchTime was able to observe both in their natural habitat.

A COCKPIT INSTRUMENT FOR YOUR WRIST

For the first time, TAG Heuer has introduced a watch without a stopwatch function in its traditional Autavia line. We test whether this chronometer-certified newbie is another winner.

IT'S HOT!

Anyone who sees the brand-new Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission is probably thrilled – first by its striking look and then, its many features.

Made in Monaco

The brand-new TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 is the first true manufacture chronograph in this legendary watch collection. Is it the best of all time?

Bronze Copilot

IWC is bringing something new to the field of traditional pilots’ watches: the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire with a bronze case, a new manufacture caliber and an attractive price. Could this be IWC’s best pilots’ watch yet?

BIG CALIBER

Longines has relaunched the Heritage Military 1938, a model that was originally built for the military over 80 years ago. Its large manual-wind movement based on a Unitas caliber guarantees robustness.

SPORTS FAN

After the brilliant return of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in 2016, chronographs have been added to this line. The latest addition is the Absolute Rock chronograph with a carbon glass case, which is manufactured using a patented injection molding process. We test a classic version with a 42-mm stainless-steel case and a high-contrast dial.

Vacheron Constantin Marries Haute Couture with Haute Horology In Égérie

When everyone else is steering toward gender neutral as the new buzzword, the venerable Vacheron Constantin unveils an all-new collection created especially for women and inspired by haute couture.

The Sustainability Project in Watchmaking: Naissance D'une Montre 2

Throughout their careers, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey noted the ongoing loss of knowledge and expertise in traditional mechanical watchmaking.

MYSTERY TRAIN

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner, named for a classic locomotive, not only hides its chronographic complexity behind a stark, minimalist dial; it even hides the rotor that brings it to life. We plumb the secrets of this limited edition from the Schaffhausen manufacture.

DEFYING THE STATUS QUO

Since the late 1960s, the Defy has been Zenith’s go-to recipe for a progressive take on watchmaking. WatchTime takes a look at the current state of the Swiss brand’s collection.

A PROTOTYPE IN SERIES

Based on a prototype from the late 1960s, the Black Bay P01 reveals a little-known aspect of Tudor’s history. We test the current serial model.