Newspaper
Evening Standard
Nico Ladenis, a self-taught star who only ever did things his way
TIME is a filter that warps. It's often repeated that the first British chef to win three Michelin stars was Marco Pierre White, but he didn't cross the finish line alone: in 1995, the guide that year awarded two restaurants run by Brits the highest accolade - one was White's, the other was Park Lane's Chez Nico, run by Nico Ladenis. Ladenis died on September 10, aged 89.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Oh Jamie, this is like a show with a star who can't sing
I don't want to name-drop,\" a pal said, as he finished a story about partying with will.i.am. \"But Andrew Lloyd Webber said to me last week, 'look, it's Jamie Oliver. He'll automatically get a spanking from the press. Be kind.\" Perhaps. As it is, Google News records 64 positive Oliver press stories from the past week which - call me a cynic - smacks of publicity bods flooding the internet in the hope of hiding bad reviews. Banning Turkey Twizzlers aside (worse than Maggie and the milk, I reckon), Oliver's been a target since the 2019 crumbling of his British restaurant empire, which left debts of £83 million and a reported 1,000 staff out of work. The chef himself was ruined.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Lifeless Korean sent to grave by insulting tips rule
EXCUSES. I suspect how easy they are to accept rather depends on how serious the crime. I remember my sister's godfather once refusing to head into a wedding until the taxi delivering his cigarettes turned up \"but it's three packs,\" he kept protesting - which might have been fine, if my sister hadn't already been waiting 15 minutes to walk down the aisle.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Camaraderie that helps turn lives around through a love of cooking
William Hosie joins Marchioness of Bath Emma Thynn at the Beyond Food Foundation in London Bridge
4 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
A Jenga tower of flavours - and the very best pudding
THE thing about immensely talented chefs is that they cannot help themselves. I am not talking, in this instance, about any accusations of off-duty misbehaviour that might give this newspaper's lawyers cause for concern.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Gothic Bar promises seduction - and drinks as lethal as Dracula
SUGGESTION is the thing, isn't it? So much more seductive than out-and-out saying something. A flash in the eyes, a tilt of the head. We're not talking ill-advised fire emojis here. Take the Gothic Bar, where opening hours are kept to \"till late\", and \"until a little later\". Granted, hardly the first to do it, but when a friend is fretting if there's time for another nightcap, it's an enjoyable thing to be able to say, \"well of course, tonight they're open a little later\".
2 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
My recipe for the perfect martini? Be really bloody careful who makes it
GIVEN that I suspect anyone searching for their personality in a newspaper column simply may not have one, I tend to avoid those occasional \"this is what your order says about you\" stories. But as I send back bad martinis, I do concede that some preferences matter.
1 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Paris's best bistro... on Goodge Street
YOU can't have it all; not every dream is realised. Here's one I have: I'm walking in the Paris dusk and, as I do the Elvis in my leg to extinguish a cigarette dreamland, it is the city of d'you-havea-light? - I notice a bistro glowing in the gloom.
2 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Forget my big mouth, this place speaks for itself
WELL this is exciting. In a sadistic, unflattering sort of way. We were not long settled into the chic, exposed-brick gloom of Akara - a new West African spot in the redeveloped outer rim of Borough Market - when our waitress's introductory spiel, about the restaurant's namesake black-eyed bean fritter, was interrupted by a voice that sounded alarmingly like my own.
2 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Before the bill was even paid, I'd made plans to come back
THE promise of \"authentic Thai food\" has long been an especially elastic and problematic one; an ever-moving target shaped by time, context and whatever level of regional fidelity the cautious masses deem tolerable.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
High camp and screaming, irrepressible brilliance
ONE of the things that restaurant owners invariably find most annoying about critics and we cannot do the full, unabridged list as we would literally be here all day - is that we visit too early. That, blinded by our manic desire to be first, we show up and paw at the glass like cats, desperate to be let in to pass judgment on something that isn't quite ready. My rejoinder to this has always been that it is really an issue about the ceding of control as much as journalistic impatience; that, really, the \"right time\" to visit for most chefs will be some amorphous, faraway point in the future that's specifically dictated by them.
2 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Sound the alarm: This beauty is a grill on fire
I WAS about an hour into my lunch at Mountain-chef Tomos Parry's spanking new, instantly thronged successor to the Michelin-starred . Brat when something that sounded a lot like a fire alarm started to wail out over the hubbub of a bustling service.
3 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Aroom of gutsy flavours and twinkling magic
MIDWAY through university, a mate and I spent a good chunk of our summer in the remote wilds of south-west France. Ostensibly there as live-in, temporary handymen at a vast, cobwebbed former schoolhouse, we painted shutters in the heat, went on a road trip to Perpignan, and generally lived out what felt like an especially uneventful arthouse film.
2 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Raise a glass to best in class of 2023 (and a few we didn't love)
In a turbulent year, eating out meant uncomplicated familiarity. It was 12 months of soul-warming highs, says our chief restaurant critic, despite the odd disappointment
8 min |
December 20, 2023
Evening Standard
Havertz playing a key role for Arteta after finally finding his feet at Arsenal
WHEN Kai Havertz finally got back to the dressing room after his winning goal for Arsenal at Brentford last month, he was hit by a wave of noise.
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
On and off Johnson's 'moment' is coming, says Ange
BRENNAN JOHNSON returns to Nottingham Forest tonight still waiting for lift-off after his £47.5 million move to Tottenham on deadline day.
3 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Dombrandt's charge to reclaim Test spot
Quins No8 has knuckled down after World Cup heartbreak
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
I’ve stopped partying to try to keep hold of this trophy... it belongs to me
THE name Michael Smith is etched into the plaque at the base of the giant World Darts Championship trophy — and the champion is staring at it in raptures.
3 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Oh, brother... the Issas in £500bn accounting error
THE Issa brothers' debt levels have been a hot topic in the business press for some time. But Spy was taken aback to find out just how steep they are.
1 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
The hardest job in British theatre is in good hands
THEATRE Indhu Rubasingham has been named as the new boss of the National, which is one hell of a task but all the signs are that she's got what it takes
4 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Falling in love pulled me back from death
THIS week I cried a few times. The first time was strangely unexpected. I was talking to the person I love when something in me snapped and I realised I was thousands of miles away. I wanted them to jump through the screen of my phone and hold me.
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Salute to the unsung heroes
William Hosie talks to a carer forced to feed her family on just £11 a day and discovers a charity that's become a lifeline
3 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Shout out to Man United's (London) army 59
WE’LL race you back to London! We’ll race you back to London!” It’s a refrain Manchester United fans have been rolling their eyes at for decades, sung by rival fans playing on the age-old gag that a fair share of the club’s fanbase are about as Mancunian as jellied eels.
3 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Harry's victory in Mirror phone hacking battle
15 out of 33 stories came from his mobile as newspaper bosses turned a blind eye’
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Police still hunting for missing Gaynor Lord
DETECTIVES were today continuing the search for mother-of-three Gaynor Lord as her family marked a week since her disappearance.
1 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
'Abducted' teen's call to granny
Emotional video reunion six years after he was taken to spiritual retreat’
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Stephen Daldry triumphs again with this gruesome nerdgasm
THIS astonishing show turns normal expectations of theatre upside down. Director Stephen Daldry has taken the Duffer Brothers’ cult, Eighties-set Netlix sci-fi hit and magicked it into a spectacular, multimedia prequel, full of enough thrills, scares and knowing nods to please fans and the uninitiated in equal measure.
2 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Where's the justice?
Heart-rending letters from elderly in court for trivial offences are ignored under single justice procedure
3 min |
December 15, 2023
Evening Standard
Arteta hopes luck of the draw is kind to Gunners
MIKELARTETA will be keen to avoid a meeting with Kylian Mbappe when the draw for the Champions League last 16 is made on Monday.
1 min |
December 14, 2023
Evening Standard
Moyes caught in a Catch-22 as he's forced into unfamiliar Euro territory
EYEBROWS might have been raised when David Moyes handed his West Ham players two days off at the start of this week.
2 min |