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Paris's best bistro... on Goodge Street
Evening Standard
|December 20, 2023
YOU can't have it all; not every dream is realised. Here's one I have: I'm walking in the Paris dusk and, as I do the Elvis in my leg to extinguish a cigarette dreamland, it is the city of d'you-havea-light? - I notice a bistro glowing in the gloom.
64 Goodge Street
64 Goodge Street, WIT 4NF. Meal for two including drinks and service, about £220. Open Monday to Saturday, noon-2.30pm and 6pm-around midnight (last booking 9.45pm); 64goodgestreet.co.uk
The food is good, the wine is better; neither is a fortune. But of course this can never happen, because instead Paris heaves with restaurants that make me wish I'd paid more attention in my French classes, if only so I might more efficiently insult the owners. C'est la vie.
It doesn't mean I don't try with Paris, but I suspect my days of chucking back warm glasses of M&S chenin blanc in the Channel Tunnel are over. What would be the point? Last week I found out Fitzrovia has thoroughly outfoxed the French. Although, let's be clear, Le Beaujolais off Charing Cross Road has long had their wine bars licked.
Denne historien er fra December 20, 2023-utgaven av Evening Standard.
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