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Prøve GULL - Gratis
A Jenga tower of flavours - and the very best pudding
Evening Standard
|December 20, 2023
THE thing about immensely talented chefs is that they cannot help themselves. I am not talking, in this instance, about any accusations of off-duty misbehaviour that might give this newspaper's lawyers cause for concern.
Story Cellar
17 Neal's Yard, WC2H 9DP. Meal for two plus drinks about £170. Open Tuesday to Saturday from noon-11pm; storycellar.co.uk
No, what I'm referring to is those chefs that tend to bring a wild-eyed meticulousness to bear on even the most outwardly banal of culinary projects. At its worst, it is a phenomenon that gives us fiddly "deconstructions" that are technically impressive but lack the brutish, simple genius of the original.
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