A LONG WEEKEND KILMORE QUAY

Jonty Pearce explores the south-east corner of Ireland, where the Irish Sea meets the Atlantic

- Jonty Pearce

The tall white finger of Tuskar Rock lighthouse appeared off our starboard bow, glinting in the sunshine before we picked out the Barrels East Cardinal. Ireland’s largest bird sanctuary, the Saltee Islands, lie some eight miles ahead of us; we were nearly there. Passing between the buoys on St Patrick’s Bridge, our westerly course led us to the safe water mark, the initial fix for the beacons that define Kilmore Quay’s leading line. 25 minutes later our Southerly 105 ketch, Aurial, was safely moored up on the visitor’s quay; my immediate requirement after a seven-hour watch was 40 winks then fish and chips – in that order.

The Irish Sea’s lumpy swell can be unforgiving and the rest of the crew – Carol, Badger and Sue – had retreated down below for the passage from Pembrokeshire to Ireland. With three furls in the genoa, one reef in the main, a full mizzen and the autopilot engaged, Aurial was sailing nicely until a southwesterly F3-4 veered, rose, and started to head us. Unable to maintain our course, it was time to motorsail. At this point the autopilot decided not to co-operate, so I manned the wheel. Sue, alerted by the change of motion, emerged and made us a cup of tea, so at least I had company and a drink.

After that much-needed snooze we wandered up the pontoon, whistling to Kilmore’s resident seals before joining the queue for the renowned chippie The Little Saltee Restaurant & Takeaway. Our meal exceeded our already high expectations, and with full tummies, topped off by a suitable nightcap, sleep came easily. We were up with the dawn next day to set off for Waterford, breakfasting as we rounded Hook Lighthouse into the entrance to Waterford Harbour and onwards up the River Suir.