Khadi Fabric: A Legacy of Sustainability and Freedom

Khadi stands as a prime example of ethical textile production - hand spun and handwoven from natural fibres like cotton and silk, making both the fabric and its production process ethical and sustainable.

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This textile, synonymous with India's freedom struggle, was revived in Gujarat by Mahatma Gandhi, who said, "The Khadi spirit means also infinite patience."

History and Origin

Khadi dates back to ancient Vedic times (5000 BC), with detailed accounts of cotton and natural fibres being handwoven with gold thread. The word 'Khadi' derives from 'Khaddar', meaning hand-spun fabric in India. The weaving of Khadi represents the oldest method of fabric production, practised on the Indian subcontinent for over 5,000 years.

The term originates from the Hindi word 'khad' and denotes a hand-weaving technique rather than a specific material. Hand-spun using a wooden spinning wheel (charkha) and then handwoven, Khadi is typically cotton-based but can also be crafted from silk, wool, and other fibres.

During colonial times, the British took Indian cotton to England, processed it in British mills, and sold it back as cloth at exorbitant prices. Gandhi urged Indians to spin and weave their own yarn to break British monopolies and achieve self-reliance. The fabric symbolises freedom, resistance, self-reliance, and equality.

Manufacturing Process

The traditional Khadi production involves several steps:

1. Ginning: Separating fibres from cotton seeds using sharp comb-like tools

2. Spinning: Converting slivers into yarn on a spinning wheel, stretching them to become thinner

3. Warping: Preparing cotton for weaving by threading yarns through heddles and securing to the loom's beam

4. Weaving: Arranging the loom with warp yarns affixed horizontally to the beam

5. Dyeing: Adding colours using predominantly natural dyes, either before or after weaving