N.J.'S BEST MEALS UNDER

UNREAL SANDWICHES FROM A JERSEY SHORE LEGEND

- KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

I’ve never found success with time travel. I’ve tried, but I always end up where, and when, I am.

Though upon my recent visit to Frank’s Deli and Restaurant in Asbury Park, I felt as close to stepping into the past as I ever have.

The place smells of generations of good food, most of it cooked on a grill that for 60 years has been searing pork roll and burgers, sizzling eggs and griddling pancakes — the sort of rich essence that makes you order more food than you can eat. The walls are lined with black-and-white pictures of mid-century events, like Jackie Robinson sliding into home plate.

Then you have the owner, Joe Maggio (not DiMaggio), who appears plucked from Jersey diner central casting with his grease-stained apron, unwavering smile and gregarious personality that makes you wish you were a regular.

Frank’s menu tends to match its retro ambiance, keeping prices low even as surrounding Asbury Park neighborhoods grow posher by the day. There are several options for lunch under $10, which likely plays a role in the Main Street locale surviving since 1960, through hurricanes and blizzards, recessions and pandemics — it’s always been affordable.

Maggio, who has owned the deli since 1991 — his dad, Frank, opened the shop in 1960 — told me why he keeps his prices low.

“We have a lot of customers who don’t have a lot of money,” Maggio said, while flipping one of six burgers on the ancient grill. “What’re you gonna do? Prices have gone up crazy, but we keep ours affordable for our longtime customers.”