WINE AND DINE

THE EVER-GROWING WINE CULTURE OF GOA

- By Seeja Prabhu

Goa, known for its idyllic beaches, vibrant nightlife, and traditional liquors like feni and urrak, is now experiencing a shift in its cultural landscape. In recent years, a burgeoning wine culture has emerged, with wine becoming an essential pairing in fine dining establishments across the state. The government's active support through events like the Grape Escapade has further bolstered this trend. While Goa's image may have been defined by beer and local spirits, the rise of wine is indicative of the changing tastes of its residents and visitors alike.

The Portuguese Legacy: A Foundation for Wine Culture

Goa's association with wine is deeply rooted in its colonial past. Between 1510 and 1961, the Portuguese ruled over Goa, and with them, they brought not just their language and religion, but also their love for wine. Despite the unpromising climate for traditional winemaking, the Portuguese settlers attempted to cultivate grapes, specializing in port-like fortified wines. They relied on indigenous varieties like "Vitis labrusca," notably the Bangalore Blue grape, which still plays a significant role in Goa's modern wine production. This legacy of Portuguese winemaking techniques, including the production of fortified wines, laid the foundation for Goa's wine culture. It is not surprising, therefore, that Goa has grown to be particularly famous for its port wines—a connection that remains strong even today.

Goa's Wine Scene: An Emergent Industry