FAUX FISH

A herb that tastes and smells like fish, and has traditionally recognised health benefits

- VIBHA VARSHNEY

IN TERMS of appearance, fish mint belies its name. With beautiful white flowers and broad, heart-shaped leaves, the herb does not really remind one of fish. However, as one examines the plant closely, the distinct fish-like smell and taste of the leaves clarify the unusual name. Another name for fish mint or Houttuynia cordata is chameleon plant the reason for this being the herb's membership of the Saururaceae or lizard-tail family of plants.

Not much is known about the origin of this herb, but it is believed to be a native of southeast Asia. It grows easily in moist soils and is resistant to flooding. The plant has two distinct flavours, according to the second edition of the Handbook of Herbs and Spices published in 2012. The Chinese variety, which is common in China and Vietnam, has a strong coriander-like aroma and its roots are used more as a vegetable. The Japanese variety, distributed from Nepal to Japan, has a lemon- or ginger-like aroma and its leaves are used more, in salads and fish recipes. The herb's strong aromas and fish-like taste may be the cause of it not being as popular as mint or coriander.

But in India, fish mint is used across the northeastern states, where people know the herb by different names. In Meghalaya, it is called ja mardoh and is used in salads or cooked with vegetables. In Manipur, where it is called tokning-khok, its leaves and roots are used for garnishing eromba, a delicacy made of boiled vegetables and fermented fish, and singju, a salad.