SUSSEX charmer

Michelle Hather falls for the chocolate-box allure of Alfriston, on the edge of the scenic South Downs

- 

It's places like Alfriston that make me wonder why I endure long airport queues. What beats a walk along one of England's greatest coastlines or a cold pint overlooking a village green? Not much, as I found out while enjoying the charms of this East Sussex beauty.

I started early-fitting, as in 1931 it was Alfriston that inspired Eleanor Farjeon to write the hymn Morning Has Broken. Blackbirds were speaking (like the first bird) when I arrived in the village and popped in to The Singing Kettle. At this teahouse, cosy meets contemporary, with avocado on toast and excellent coffee fuelling the inevitable walk. Medieval monks passed through these parts en route from Battle Abbey to Chichester Cathedral, and it feels natural to follow in their footsteps. Alfriston also sits on the final stretch of the South Downs Way, which provides fantastic views of the English Channel.

South Downs loop

My National Trust 10.4km loop began off Alfriston High Street. Leaving the village behind, I followed a chalk path through arable fields towards Berwick Church, where artists from the Bloomsbury Group painted colourful murals. From there, the route promised me a glimpse of the Long Man of Wilmington, a 70-metre chalk figure carved into Windover Hill. My guidebook warned he was 'barely visible', and he certainly remained elusive to my eyes. Harder to miss was the Weald's stunning panorama, and then views of Newhaven Harbour. Keeping to the South Downs Way, the view of the coast towards the Seven Sisters eased into view, followed by Alfriston, sitting in the Cuckmere Valley below.