Secrets in the Stars

A glamping trip helps unlock the mysteries of New Mexico's Chaco Canyon.

- Text and photographs by Kevin West

IT WAS A TRIP ordained by the heavens. I arrived in Santa Fe—for the umpteenth time since I first saw the Land of Enchantment as a teenager—on the eve of the new moon, one of the darkest nights in the lunar calendar, to join a spring stargazing adventure. Destination: Chaco Culture National Historical Park, a vast Ancestral Puebloan complex located in the state’s northwestern quadrant, a region noted for its dark skies.

Taos-based tour company Heritage Inspirations organized the trip in collaboration with Santa Fe’s storied Inn of the Five Graces (four-night package from $8,700). It promised archaeology by day and deluxe tented accommodations and astronomy by night—plus three nights in town to explore what's new in the country's oldest capital.

CHACO IS MYSTERIOUS. Chaco is magical. Chaco is a pain to get to. I’d been wanting to see it for years, but the UNESCO World Heritage site is about a three-hour drive from Santa Fe, the last stretch on unpaved roads, and the campsites are DIY. Plus, I never could have arranged the speakers and guides brought in by Heritage Inspirations to instruct—or perhaps I should say enlighten—me and my fellow stargazers on the secrets of Chaco Canyon.

Our group of 13 spent the first night at the Inn of the Five Graces, across the street from the iconic San Miguel Chapel in Barrio de Analco, a neighborhood where the oldest house dates back to 1646. I checked in to my ornately decorated suite and joined other early birds for drinks on a sun-dappled patio. None of us had been to Chaco before, but we all felt its pull. A trio of silver-haired sisters had convened from around the country in remembrance of their late father, while a couple from Massachusetts were well versed in alternative theories about ancient aliens and lost civilizations.