DECISION TIME

Do you go all in on one pricey, luxe watch or assemble a swarm of budget timepieces? Let's crunch the numbers.

- Edited by Jeremy White

WATCH GEEKS LOVE the phrase “GADA watch,” meaning a “go anywhere, do anything” timepiece. But what’s better: one all-rounder watch or a varied collection that covers any scenario? WIRED sets the same budget for each approach to find out.

The Standard

Watch fans can never really be satisfied with one watch. We love to pretend that there is a “holy grail” or “exit watch” out there, but really there’s no end to this journey. However, we also love to argue, and the concept of a one-and-done is a permanent conversation starter.

The true GADA watch can’t be too high-end. It must be something you can wear on a hike and in the pool, as well as to a formal function. Ideally, you'd be able to wear it around a major city without fear of theft, which rules out pretty much any Rolex, but we'd still want approving nods from the horological snobs.

Some brands make this sweet spot their comfort zone. We considered the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer or a Longines Spirit Zulu Time—both have an eye on value, a reputation for quality, and an all-around design that’s not too polarizing.

Inevitably, your one watch isn’t going to be able to do everything. It won’t be as chic as a Cartier or pack a pedigree chronograph. But rest assured, it’ll have you covered 95 percent of the time.

In the end, we settled on a Tudor Black Bay GMT on a fabric or leather strap. For $4,550, you get a 41-mm stainless-steel piece with a 200-meter water resistance rating, a COSC-certified chronometer movement, and a design that’s smart enough to blend in with formal outfits, even though it’s most at home in more casual settings.

With triple time zone functionality, it’s a useful travel tool, too, and Tudor is respected by watch geeks the world over.

That’s what we’re up against. Can we build a dream team to rival the Tudor for the same cash outlay?

The Challengers