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Chinese tea hub Pu'er branches into coffee as tastes change

The Straits Times

|

May 05, 2025

At a mountainside cafe in south-western China, Mr Liao Shihao brews handfuls of locally grown beans into steaming cups of coffee, a modern twist on the region's traditional drink.

Chinese tea hub Pu'er branches into coffee as tastes change

PU'ER, China - At a mountainside cafe in south-western China, Mr Liao Shihao brews handfuls of locally grown beans into steaming cups of coffee, a modern twist on the region's traditional drink.

For centuries, Pu'er in Yunnan province has given its name to a type of richly fermented tea - sometimes styled "pu-er" - famous across East Asia and beyond.

But as younger Chinese cultivate a taste for punchy espressos, frothy lattes and flat whites, growers are increasingly branching out into tea's historic rival.

"People are coming to try our hand-drip coffee... and more fully experience the flavours it brings," said Mr Liao, 25. "In the past, they mostly went for commercialised coffee, and wouldn't dabble in the artisanal varieties."

Mr Liao's family has run the Xiaowazi, or Little Hollow, coffee plantation for three generations. Nestled in a shady valley, spindly coffee trees line its steep hillsides, their cherry-like fruit drying on wooden pallets outside.

When AFP visited in April, clusters of tourists sipped boutique brews in the airy cafe overlooking its verdant slopes.

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