A little eatery that fed me, and what its Michelin moment means

Philippines' first Michelin guide recognises everyday Filipinos, whose dishes have long fed communities without seeking the limelight.

- Mara Cepeda

My first attempt to interview 68-year-old Elizabeth Mortera ended with an apology.

Her humble Morning Sun Eatery just earned a Bib Gourmand from the inaugural Michelin Guide Philippines, and the line outside wrapped around the block.

It was a weekday afternoon in mid-November, and a snaking crowd had already formed outside her small eatery in Quezon City, near the Philippine capital.

Ms Mortera flashed me an apologetic look as she hurried past carrying a huge bowl of her signature dinakdakan - pork jowl and offal boiled, grilled, then chopped and tossed in a tangy dressing made creamier with pig's brain. Prices are very affordable, with a stick of grilled meat starting from 35 pesos (80 Singapore cents).

"I am so sorry, Mara, but I really can't talk to you right now," she said, half-laughing, half-panicked. "There're just so many customers and I don't want to turn anyone away."

I had never seen Morning Sun like this.

For 30 years, this was simply the neighbourhood eatery from my childhood. I grew up in the residential area just a few blocks away. My family would order the dinakdakan as well as grilled pork belly and freshwater catfish (my favourites!) on nights when we were too tired to cook. When I was in university, I stopped by on weekends after my boxing class, sweaty and famished as I took comfort in the smoky barbecue and the familiar warmth of a place that felt like home.

I could always walk in and find a seat. Now, diners have to wait up to two hours.

I finally sat down with Ms Mortera on a Sunday, her family business' newly proclaimed day off because the crush of customers since the Oct 30 Michelin Guide Philippines announcement had made a rest day necessary. Previously, the walk-in eatery that seats just about a dozen - with tables and stools spilling out onto the street - opened daily.

She looked exhausted, but the pride in her eyes eclipsed her fatigue.