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THE RED MEAT RESOLUTION
The Philippine Star
|December 25, 2025
I 'went to Morton's for lunch, which is when BGC reveals its true character.
Not the after-dark version that likes to photograph itself, but the daytime district of lanyards, brisk walking, and decisions made between meetings. Sidewalks fill and empty in waves. People know where they are going. Hunger has a schedule.
Inside Uptown Eastgate, the temperature drops a degree. Inside Morton's, the tempo changes altogether. Lunch there is not an abbreviated dinner. It is its own discipline.
Why Morton's first year is the blueprint for a better 2026.
Daylight does something honest to the room. It exposes proportions. Oxblood walls hold their color. Lava rock reads architectural rather than theatrical. Tables are spaced far enough apart to let conversations keep their dignity. You notice efficiency before comfort, and then you realize they are the same thing. Beef and heat register in the air, present but not insistent.
Lunch, I have found, is where restaurants tell the truth. There is less tolerance for fuss, less appetite for ceremony. A kitchen either understands restraint or it does not. A dining room either functions or collapses under the weight of its own ambition.
Morton's has been open in Manila for a year. At lunch, that milestone barely announces itself. What you notice instead is fluency. Service moves with quiet purpose. Water glasses refill before you realize they are low. Plates arrive when you are ready for them. No one checks on you with theatrical concern. Nothing begs to be admired.
This story is from the December 25, 2025 edition of The Philippine Star.
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