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The Philippine Star
|October 31, 2024
A slab of anchovy on top of charred mashed eggplant was the perfect introduction to a dinner in Cantabria.
The anchovy comes from a small fishing village in Northern Spain, says chef Chele Gonzalez, and it has the pedigree of coming straight from the sea. Although its bones had been meticulously picked off, the anchovy retained its slim elongated shape, its fleshy texture and the saltiness of the sea.
Gonzalez's pride in the anchovy is understandable; after all, he is from Cantabria, where long coastal areas skim the edges of the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean. Thus the abundance of fresh seafood, which Cantabria is famous for. It is such abundant seafood that inspired the menu of Cantabria, Gonzalez's restaurant collaboration with Westin Hotel Manila. Sea scallops baked into a tartlet then topped with caviar as well as chili crab croquettes with lime mayonnaise further underscored our dinner's focus on seafood. The grilled octopus leg seasoned with Spanish paprika tasted smoky and tender, with the side of pickled potatoes adding heartiness to the dish.
"We take on a creative and sophisticated approach to seafood, and showcase a unique side of Spanish cuisine," said Gonzalez. To this end, Gonzalez and his chef de cuisine Ivan Saiz Sordo make it a point to oversee the quality and sources of the ingredients. That, and their innovative touches on tapas and other Spanish dishes, take the cuisine in Cantabria to another level.
This story is from the October 31, 2024 edition of The Philippine Star.
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