From black magic to blackouts

Maundy Thursday night, riding a tricycle down Mt. Bandilaan - home to Siquijor's famed healers - I looked back and gasped.

- IRIS GONZALES

The mountain behind us had disappeared into a pitch-black curtain, with not a flicker of light, not even from a firefly.

For a moment, my imagination went wild. What if, the next time I turned around, I saw a white lady in the middle of the dark, lonely road waving at me, or what if a kapre jumped onboard our trike?

I was, after all, in the fabled island, said to be the home of enchanted beings, mythological beasts, fairies and healers and shamans alike.

There's no lack of stories of monsters and mysticism here in this province nestled in the Negros Island Region, more so during the pre-colonial times.

During our long drive in the darkness, the trike driver even talked about his encounters with white ladies through the years. "They're beautiful," he said. It turns out, he was referring to the blonde and blue-eyed Caucasians who visit the island.

Siquijor, population 103,395, attracts thousands of tourists every year. More than 200,000 people visited the island in 2024, unfazed by the stories and urban legends of the supernatural and mythical.

Spending the Holy Week on the island, I realized that Siquijor has so much to offer - much more than the stories of black magic and witchcraft.

There are pristine beaches and waterfalls where visitors can relax and enjoy.

There's a widely popular centuries-old balete tree in the town of Lazi, believed to be over 400 years old. Local and foreign tourists alike flock to the towering tree, which is quite a sight with its oversized roots and shade-giving branches.