Why a 'Prada' to Add Value to Kolhapuris?

When the designer brand Prada SpA featured 'leather flat sandals' on the ramp at the Milan Fashion Week a month ago, Indians all over caught on that they were being had.

- GURBIR SINGH

When the designer brand Prada SpA featured 'leather flat sandals' on the ramp at the Milan Fashion Week a month ago, Indians all over caught on that they were being had. It was the modest 'Kolhapuri chappals' being plagiarized, and they were rightly outraged.

Prada did not acknowledge the cultural origins or the craftsmen who had made the 'Kolhapuris' a part of Maharashtra's daily wear; but what perhaps got the Indian goat was the pricing: A $5 slip-on tagged at $1,340 (₹1.16 lakh)! And the cheek, not a penny for the original designers of the unique toe-hold chappals?

The backlash was severe. Prada had underestimated our nationalistic troll army, which went to town against the brand appropriating Indian culture. Within days, Prada acknowledged the Indian roots of its new footwear line, and accepted it was inspired by 'traditional Indian footwear'.

But here's the rub. There are plenty upholding India's heritage. But why aren't there enough Indian entrepreneurs who can do what Prada did? Those who can design and brand 'Kolhapuris' and other footwear and make them international products. Surely there is no rocket science about holding fashion shows and clever marketing. The Kolhapuri is a 12th-century product. It has its innate strength. Why do you need a Prada to discover it?

Low-value leather