In Praise of the Samosa

Centuries of travel, countless fillings, one beloved snack—how India made the samosa its own

- Vernika Awal

If you know me even a little, you’ll know about my unwavering love for the humble samosa. And now, with the monsoon clouds gathering over Delhi, that craving only grows stronger with every grey sky and cool breeze. I can’t quite recall when this love affair with the triangular snack began, but I’ve sampled countless versions from different regions over the years. After much enthusiastic research, I’ve concluded that my favorites are the classic Punjabi samosa—stuffed with potatoes, coarse coriander seeds, a hint of salt, and, when in season, sweet green peas—and the Bengali singhara, with its delicate diced potato and peanut filling. Paired with garam chai served in a mati’r bhaar (clay cup), few things come close.

Chef Naresh Kotwal of Ikk Panjab has, rather amusingly, taken it upon himself to fuel this obsession. Every time he spots me, he appears with a plate of piping hot samosas in hand. His version isn’t the oversized, dough-heavy rendition so common outside Punjab. Instead, these are perfectly proportioned, with an ideal ratio of crisp casing to soft, flavorful filling. True to tradition, they are lightly spiced, relying on texture and balance rather than fiery heat—the way samosas are made across Punjab.