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Tale of two cities

The Journal

|

July 02, 2025

Estonia has lots to offer, as SAMUEL PORT found on a visit to its two largest cities - Tallinn and Tartu

BEAUTIFULLY preserved medieval charm blended with futuristic flair give Tallinn its unique vibrancy.

Baroque palaces, Gothic spires, Soviet-era buildings and contemporary masterpieces set across lively neighbourhoods bursting with cafe culture, trendy water-fronts and magnificent museums, make city-breaking a whirlwind in this compact capital.

See and do: An outstanding example of a beautifully preserved medieval European trading city, Tallinn’s Old Town was designated a World Heritage Site in 1997. Dating back to the 13th century, the wealthy merchants who lived there left their mark on the city with opulent public buildings and churches.

Start by journeying through centuries on a walking tour around its cobbled streets set between defensive ramparts. You'll pass Kissing Hill, or Viru Gate Park, featuring two famous stone sculptures of a young couple locking lips, and through alleyways opening into large courtyards lined with pastel-painted Hanseatic merchant houses.

The walls offer an amazing view of the Old Town and its famous landmarks including Toompea Castle. Among the medieval treasures, seek out Fat Margaret, which is the self-depreciating name for the wide stone tower now part of the Estonian Maritime Museum. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a richly decorated Russian Orthodox church, is another must-see in the city.

One of Tallinn’s most upmarket coastal districts, Kadriorg, boasts seven museums and streets lined with summer mansions and wooden houses dating back to its heyday as a seaside destination.

At the heart of Kadriorg is Estonia’s baroque palace and park ensemble, established 300 years ago by Russian Tsar Peter the Great.

Kadriorg Palace in its brightly painted splendour, features a garden with fountains and houses the Estonian Art Museum's collection.

Beside it sits the little house of Peter the Great - a small bungalow, with just a living room, dining room and bedroom - a curious oddity.

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