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Newcomers threaten Patagonia's paradise

The Guardian Weekly

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November 03, 2023

Anational park has drawn hundreds of people tosettlein the remote area, witha potential threat to wildlife and a way of life

- Jonathan Franklin

Newcomers threaten Patagonia's paradise

Six years ago, the Chilean government created the Cerro Castillo national park, a 138,000-hectare swathe of gleaming glaciers, emerald Andean lakes and jagged peaks. Now that the greater ecosystem is protected, small herds of endangered huemul deer Chile's national animal - are making a comeback and invasive plant species are being uprooted.

But in the narrow valleys below the peaks, real estate speculators are carving the landscape into thousands of half-hectare plots for sale to those who want to own a slice of paradise.

The sudden interest in Cerro Castillo has sent prices soaring. Twenty years ago, land here sold for as little as $500 for one hectare. Today, the price is closer to $50,000, and that increase is exploding the culture and traditions in this village of just 800.

Small farmers with a hillside of land, a few sheep and horses are now millionaires on paper yet struggle to find money to pay for petrol. "The people from Santiago or foreigners come here as tourists and fall in love with Patagonia," said Pedro Aguilar, 57, who was born nearby and works a small plot of potatoes and beets.

Aguilar said he understands the attraction of Patagonia. "It is tranquil, there is no pollution. The water - you can still drink it, it is not contaminated. And you have all these beautiful lakes. But new people have arrived with new customs. I feel as if we are losing our culture and our grandparents' customs."

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