Cruise control Could a £5 tourist fee help Orkney?
The Guardian Weekly
|October 31, 2025
Artisan jewellery, gift and whisky shops crowd the main street of Kirkwall on Orkney. The town even has a new sushi shop.
Once home to the Viking earls who ruled the islands, Kirkwall has hit it rich: it tops the UK's charts for cruise ship visits as American, German and Italian tourists descend on remarkable neolithic sites such as Skara Brae and its medieval cathedral.
But many Orcadians are fed up: hosting about 450,000 visitors a year - 20 times the local population of 22,000 - has a significant cost. Its narrow roads are congested, public buses overwhelmed, the neolithic stones at Brodgar fenced off to repair the erosion by visitors. Some tourists, unable to find toilets, have even been accused of defecating in the open.
Struggling to afford the costs of building new toilets, coach parks and paths, the council and its business leaders want the power to introduce a new levy for every tourist who lands on Orkney by either boat or air.
Orkney islands council has joined with Shetland and Comhairle nan Eilean Siar (Western Isles council) to urge the Scottish government to legislate for a levy added to fares charged by cruise operators, ferry companies and the islands airline Loganair.
This story is from the October 31, 2025 edition of The Guardian Weekly.
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