Hot coals and simple recipe make peas a city tradition

ONLY WAY IS THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY, SAYS GOOSE FAIR STALLHOLDER WILL

- By LYNETTE PINCHESS

The Traditional Mushy Pea Stall at Goose Fair attracts customers from far and wide

“IT’S Nottingham, isn’t it?” is the reply when I ask what makes humble mushy peas such a popular delicacy.

Right now, Will Warwick is living and breathing the once-a-year tradition at Goose Fair. The 55-year-old been a travelling showman all his life, but his roots are firmly planted in Nottingham.

A couple of years ago, he took over the Traditional Mushy Pea Stall, the one with the stripy green and white canopy. “It’s the history of it. It’s proper Nottingham,” says Will, who was born and bred in Dunkirk. “I wanted to take it backwards instead of forwards, going back to how it really started.

“That's why we put a board up with photos, explaining to the local Nottingham people and all our visitors from all over the world. I love nostalgia.”

The stall is undoubtedly one of the biggest draws of the ten-day fair at Forest Recreation Ground, until October 5, with thousands of people making their annual pilgrimage for a pot doused in vinegary mint sauce and maybe a sprinkle of white pepper and salt.

Will says: “I spoke to a man yesterday who came 30 miles just for some peas, and then he went back again. People are fetching their parents out of old people's homes in wheelchairs to have the peas and to see their faces, it’s fantastic.

“They explain how many generations they can go back - they remember their grandad bringing them. For me to own the stall, I’m so proud.”

Families are maintaining the tradition, blowing on a spoonful of the green stuff to make sure it’s not too hot, and popping it in their baby’s mouth. “Honestly, nine times out of ten, they love them. That's what it’s all about.