Stars shine, humble 'karinderya' sparkle

At the inaugural Michelin Guide Philippines 2026 gala, fine dining and street eats shared the spotlight as a small eatery in Quezon City captured the nation's heart

- FELICIANO RODRIGUEZ III

The grand ballroom of the Manila Marriott glowed on Oct. 30, filled with the hum of conversation and the scent of champagne.

Chefs in crisp whites and diners in sleek suits gathered for a night that marked a milestone in the country's culinary story: the unveiling of the Michelin Guide Philippines 2026.

It was a night that belonged, in equal measure, to ambition and to heart. For years, Filipino chefs had watched from afar as neighboring countries made their mark on the world dining stage. Now, it was the Philippines' turn. The room buzzed with anticipation as the names of the country's first-ever Michelin awardees were called.

Helm, the intimate, counter-style restaurant led by Chef Josh Boutwood, received two stars, the evening's highest honor. The recognition affirmed Helm's place among Asia's most refined dining experiences, where precision meets quiet artistry. Applause filled the ballroom, echoing long after the announcement.

After the ceremony, I found myself shaking Josh's hand. His grip was firm, the kind that conveys both gratitude and disbelief. You could feel his joy, unguarded and true. Nearby, Cristina Santiago of Carmelo's Steakhouse radiated the same warmth. All smiles and laughter, she moved across the room, greeting peers and guests, and insisting we pose for a photo together. It was a moment that captured the tone of the evening: celebratory, communal, almost familial.