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HAYATO
Los Angeles Times
|December 14, 2025
MY MOST enduring recommendation for a once-in-a-lifetime indulgence in Los Angeles?
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The seven-seat sanctuary in Row DTLA where, for seven customers five nights a week, Brandon Hayato Go and his tiny crew choreograph three-hour meals.Modernizing two traditional forms of Japanese dining, kaiseki and kappo, Go stands at the counter's center, wielding knives and chopsticks to assemble small dishes of seafood, much of it direct from Japan’s waters, in practiced, poetic flow. Go,
This story is from the December 14, 2025 edition of Los Angeles Times.
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