Gentrification in Mexico City: myths and realities

INSIDE THIS BOOMING CULINARY DESTINATION.

- BY DANIEL HERNANDEZ

EUNICE ADORNO For The Times

(EUNICE ADORNO)

I NOTICED A slight social shift on the second or third time I sat down fora quick catch-up meal with a fellow bilingual person in Mexico City.

Ifthe people sitting at the table next to us were native-born locals, they'd invariably shoot a scowl upon hearing us skip between English and Spanishin conversation (the way Iand many others speak anywhere in Mexico or the United States). A few times, upon leaving, our neighboring patrons didn’t offer aword in our direction. The silence was heartbreaking. Why?

Because in Mexico Cityitisa custom to say “Enjoy your meal” — “Buen provecho”—to the strangers still dining next to you. As normal as shaking hands ora kiss on the cheek to say hello, the greeting transcends class lines.

Iwas pretty stunned. The other tables assumed we were totally uncultured or undeserving of their greeting. In summer 2025, it was pointedly uncool to be perceived as a “gringo” in the capital of the former Aztec Empire.

The restaurants of Mexico City are experiencing a dynamic and ambitious renewal that is attracting food lovers from around the world. Yet the buoyant mood is marred by skyrocketing housing costs and anti-gentrification protests decrying the booming population of “digital nomads,” a.k.a. remote workers, and their effect on neighborhoods long identified as foreigner-friendly.

Asa former resident and frequent visitor, I've found that much ofthe discourse about this moment feels a bit warped from reality. I hear many people in Los Angeles wonder aloud ifit is still possible to dine and drink ethically — or at least more conscientiously — asa short-term visitor.

Ofcourse it is, and I encourage it, especially for Angelenos. The taco, after all, is our primary unit too.