3 days. 65 miles. One epic trek honoring a legendary outlaw

For Mexican American riders, this year's trip feels different

- By Clara Harter

Photographs by CARLIN STIEHL Los Angeles Times PEDRO SANTACRUZ, left, and Emilio Carranza Jr. lead the Joaquin Murrieta ride from Cantua Creek.

For three days and 65 miles, the riders will travel through the heat and dust of the Central Valley to honor a man from the Gold Rush era who, depending on the point of view, was either a freedom fighter or a ruthless criminal.

Their journey begins in Cantua Creek, a rural community in Fresno County, where California Rangers claimed to have shot and killed Joaquin Murrieta in 1853. As proof, they cut off his head and pickled it in a jar.

The nearby California Historical Landmark marker declares Murrieta "a notorious bandit," but a plaque at the local convenience store hails him as "El Patrio," the patriot.

"For us Mexican horsemen, he is like our hero," explains Arturo Barajas, one of those assembling for the journey. "We can't say he's a saint, but he's pretty close."

The journey is the 46th annual three-day cabalgata, or horse pilgrimage, named after the famous Mexican cowboy who once roamed these lands. Blasting mariachi music, Barajas pulls his truck into a field behind the convenience store, where a small group of riders will spend the night. It's July 24, the eve of the 172nd anniversary of Murrieta's death.

Although Murrieta was a real person, the events of his life are wrapped in myth.

Legend says he gave stolen gold to poor Latinos after the Mexican territory of Alta California became an American state in 1850, earning him the nickname "the Robin Hood of El Dorado." His exploits are believed to have inspired the dashing fictional character of Zorro.

For the Joaquin Murrieta riders, he represents someone who stood up against U.S. oppression and demonstrates the longstanding history of Mexican people on this land.