The fading gates of Delhi's walled past

Only four of Delhi's 13 Mughal-era gates remain. Hemmed in by neglect and time, they now stand as crumbling reminders of the city's walled history

- Varun Bhandari

When Mughal emperor Shah Jahan built Shahjahanabad as his new capital in the 17th century, he wrapped it in formidable walls and crowned it with 13 grand gateways. These were no mere architectural flourishes. The gates were the city's watchmen-marking entry points for traders and emperors, guiding pilgrims, and standing guardled to a city beyond: Ajmer, Kashmir, Kabul, Lahore.

Today, only four stand Kashmere Gate, Delhi Gate, Ajmeri Gate, and Turkman Gate. The rest I have been swallowed by Delhi's relentless sprawl.

Those that survive, now choked by traffic and neglect, stand as crumbling reminders of a city that has outgrown its own memory.

"Once proud guardians of an imperial capital, these gates now face a precarious battle against encroachments, neglect, and relentless urbanisation," said writer and historian Sohail Hashmi. "They have become invisible in plain sight."

Kashmere Gate: A scarred sentinel

Built to lead travellers north toward Kashmir, the Kashmere Gate stands near the Inter-State Bus Terminal (ISBT) in North Delhi. Originally a single-arch structure, it was modified into a two-arched gateway by the British in the early 19th century. Its location made it a vital colonial node, facilitating trade and administration.

But the gate is also a witness to bloodshed. During the 1857 Rebellion, British forces used it as a critical access point to reclaim Delhi from the rebels. The scars of cannon fire and musket shots are still visible on its weathered red sandstone.

When HT visited, the monument stood hemmed in by traffic and chaos. Vendors crowd the footpaths, makeshift shops lean against its flanks, and buses idle behind it. The brickwork is stained with soot and peeling with age.

"Recent restoration efforts have included signage and wheelchair ramps, but these are superficial," said Hashmi.