Beans, time and love

An artisan is taking Korean soy fermentation back to its roots

- BY MANUEL ALMARIO Senior News Editor

Savoury, sweet and spicy: That's what comes to mind when you eat Korean cuisine. From biting into spicy kimchi, or savouring bulgogi, there's just something irresistible about Korean food.

And one possible reason behind its addictive flavour is the use of pickling and fermentation.

We took a deep dive into the world of fermentation during a recent visit to South Korea, where we met the remarkable Master Kubonil. She explained the age-old craft of traditional soy sauce and fermented condiments. Tucked away amidst the rolling fields of Paju in South Korea’s Gyeonggi province, her farm, Kubonil Fermentation, is a gold mine. Here, over 300 fermentation jars, each one a vessel of flavour, stand, aging to create the deep, complex profiles that define authentic Korean sauces.

As we walked through the rows of onggi — traditional earthenware jars — Kubonil shared her passion and expertise, revealing the secrets behind her craft. Her passion for fermentation began over 20 years ago, sparked by a quest to uncover the authentic essence of Korean