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Forget my big mouth, this place speaks for itself
Evening Standard
|December 20, 2023
WELL this is exciting. In a sadistic, unflattering sort of way. We were not long settled into the chic, exposed-brick gloom of Akara - a new West African spot in the redeveloped outer rim of Borough Market - when our waitress's introductory spiel, about the restaurant's namesake black-eyed bean fritter, was interrupted by a voice that sounded alarmingly like my own.
Akara
18 Stoney Street, SE1 9AD. Meal for two plus drinks about £160. Open Tuesday to Saturday from noon-10pm; akaralondon.co.uk
"And what's really cool," I butted in, "is that the same dish from Nigeria is basically reinvented in the Caribbean as accra, the saltfish fritter. And then, in Brazil, as acarajé!" I do not need telling that this was an unforgivable bit of menu-splaining.
This story is from the December 20, 2023 edition of Evening Standard.
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