DAZED IN DECCAN

In the murky, shifting, swirly landscape of Karnataka politics, the only thing that seems to look dependably solid is Modiji

- ANUJA CHAUHAN

Prakash Jain’s thriving little showroom in Chickpet sells knock-off sportsgear. Bhanu (photojournalist/translator/ wise-veteran-to-my-bumbling-rookie) and I marvel at the material, the tailoring, the Nike swoosh, the Adidas trefoil and the Reebok vector—excellent enough to satisfy even the most snooty gym auntie. Prakash smiles his unassuming smile, feeds us hot-from-thekadhai samosas and kachodis and confides that he plans to visit the Ram Temple in Ayodhya soon.

‘But you’re a Jain,’ we say. ‘So what?’ Prakash shrugs. ‘Ram is there in Jainism also. Sita, Lakshman everybody! I go to temple, I go to church, I go to gurudwara.’ After an infinitesimal pause he adds, ‘I go to mosque also.’

Chickpet market, dating back to the 16th century, is Bengaluru’s largest commercial hub—chock-ablock with wholesale and retail cloth, jewellery and bartan (utensil) outlets. It is a BJP stronghold, home to the second-largest Marwari population in south India, and represented by the firebrand MP, 33-yearold Tejasvi Surya, an ardent advocate of hindutva. The consecration of the Ram Temple on January 22 was marked by a celebration ‘bigger than Diwali’ in Chickpet.

‘Amit Shah is the most powerful man in India,’ Prakash says as we sip bright orange chai from tiny paper cups. ‘He stays in the background, but from there PM, CM, the big industrialists, he pulls all their strings.’ He goes on to confide that he does not discuss politics with his parents, but only with his friends. It is a matter of respect.

The wind chime dangling at the front of the shop tinkle as the door is thrown open and a young kinnar (transperson) catwalks confidently down the length of the shop to stand before us. Her red sari-