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Pass the olive oil

New Zealand Listener

|

May 24-30, 2025

'Bad boy' English chef Thomas Straker turns his back on his famous butter recipes for lashings of a healthier alternative.

Pass the olive oil

Sea bass is among Britan's most popular fish for its soft delicate texture with crispy skin. A New Zealand equivalent would be tarakihi or a similar white-fleshed fish. This dish has superb balance, with lots of fresh herbs, lentils and delicious wilted spinach. It is a great weeknight dinner and I'd bet it's likely to become a regular in your repertoire.

WHITE FISH, LENTILS, SPINACH AND SALSA VERDE

Serves 4

FOR THE LENTILS

• 135ml extra virgin olive oil

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 1 leek, green part removed, finely chopped

• 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced, chopped or grated

• 250g Puy lentils, rinsed

• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar

• 280g spinach, larger leaves if possible

• fine sea salt

FOR THE FISH

• 2 tbsp vegetable oil

• 4 x 180g skin-on fillets of white-fleshed fish

• ½ quantity Salsa Verde

• 1 lemon, quartered

Put 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saucepan and set over a medium heat. Add the onion, leek and a generous pinch of salt, then cook gently for 10 minutes until softened but not coloured. Add 2 of the chopped or grated garlic cloves and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Add the lentils to the pan, then pour in enough water to just cover. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary. Remove from the heat and leave to sit for 5 minutes, then drain off and discard the excess liquid. Season with 4 tablespoons more olive oil, the vinegar, and salt to taste.

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