BEYOND THE TIGER

A monsoon escape to Sariska Lodge reveals pilgrim trails, hidden temples and the quiet joys of Rajasthan's countryside

- By Amita Baviskar

After weeks of dealing with seeping walls, car repairs and dental work, I am longing for a break.

Anything to get away from daily chores and domestic crises. So, I gladly seize the weekend invitation from Sariska Lodge and off we drive at dawn from Delhi towards Alwar, Rajasthan. Past the purgatory of Gurugram's traffic snarls, we bowl along the Delhi-Mumbai expressway before turning off onto a small road that winds its way between villages and fields full of bajra, climbing into the forested Aravalli hills. The cacophony of city life falls away. Here is a slower pace, serenity, and space to breathe.

Like me, the countryside is on holiday. Walking along the road are pilgrims on their way to the mela at the Baba Bhartrihari temple in the forest. We pass groups of women, red and yellow odhnis over their heads and sturdy backpacks behind. The driver explains that, during this lull in the labour of farming, villagers take time off to visit the temple of the king-turned-ascetic. The trek is tough, but charitable villagers along the way organise community kitchens to feed the pilgrims. Indeed, we soon come across a roadside clearing where turbanned men are stirring a giant pan of aloo sabzi and frying pooris in a huge karhai. Everyone, including passersby like us, are lovingly urged to eat. So, we go on, snacking our way through kachori, jalebi and moong vade, surprised and pleased at this unexpected treat.