Twist and Turn

Bvlgari's debut Tubogas jewellery collection reimagines a classic technique with 16 stunning creations

- Annabel Tan

The Tubogas technique has become almost synonymous with Bvlgari’s famous Serpenti motif. The two are often seen together, perhaps most recognisably as striking timepieces, with their metal linked bodies coiling around the wrist and the head of the serpent displaying the time. This was in fact the original purpose of the Tubogas—to enable the creation of a supple bracelet that serves as the base of the Serpenti watch.

With a rich history dating back to 1948, when it was first employed to create the bracelet for the now iconic Serpenti watch, the revolutionary technique of metalworking was inspired by and named after gas pipes used to transport pressurised gas in the 1920s. It allows for more flexibility and suppleness on the bracelet without affecting its structural integrity by wrapping strips of gold around a coiled spring without soldering. These interlocking metal strips are meticulously crafted to form a continuous, flowing shape, like a slithering serpent, that not only enhances comfort around a wrist or neck, but also allows for a lightweight feel, making the pieces suitable for everyday wear.

This unique blend of functionality and aesthetics captures the spirit of industrial design that flourished in post‑war Europe, and by the 1970s, the Tubogas had evolved into a cultural phenomenon, celebrated for its modernity and Italian flair. Over the years, the artisans at Bvlgari have continued to employ traditional methods while also embracing innovative approaches, pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved with this special technique.