What's Cooking At The Supper Clubs?

Mumbai's latest obsession offers a cornucopia of delights, catering to two of India's top infatuations-people and food

- Sharan Sanil

Standing in a too-long queue at a home decor store, I found myself alternating between checking my wristwatch and ensuring that I had everything required-extra plates, serving spoons, highball glasses; check. To my left, a set of wall clocks ominously ticked-just twenty-five minutes to go before our guests were supposed to arrive. My phone buzzed as I sped downstairs and hauled my fragile cargo into a rickshaw. I smiled as we ran two green lights in a row-I was going to make it.

Time management, I learned that Sunday, was perhaps one of the most important aspects of running a supper club. These four-to-twelve-seater social events take on several shapes and forms, ranging from extravagant feats of technical gastronomy to humble attempts to revive childhood classics at home. Though quite trendy at the moment, the phenomenon of supper clubs is quite old, finding its roots in the Prohibition era of the early 20th Century United States. About a hundred years later, folks from across the world would replicate the idea; only in lieu of alcohol, it was communal eating that was sought after.

'Khanpaan' kicked off in a blaze of glory late this March-leaving behind a trail of burned fingers and other minor kitchen disasters, along with several tables' worth of satisfied diners; first friends, then friends-of-friends, and then strangers. The experience has greatly affected the outlook and personal development of its founder-cook (and my flatmate), Kabeer Khan-who, in between his responsibilities as a PR manager, continues to immortalise old family favourites with a fortnightly showcase of sheer decadence, handground spices, and all things meat.