The Allure of Louisville

Three days in search of new surprises in Kentucky's Derby City 

-  VALERIE RAINS

I KNEW ABOUT the horses and the hats. I had heard about the bourbon. Baseball bats were mentioned, almost without fail, whenever plans for an autumn trip to Louisville, Kentucky, came up in conversation. But I'd also listened as friends with no interest in any of the above gushed about their love for the Bluegrass State’s largest city, and I wanted to see what all that fuss was about: the food scene that punches above its weight, the abundance of art and historic architecture, the Olmsted-designed parks and distinctive neighborhoods bursting with character, and the complex culture that’s difficult to sum up in a sound bite. I set out to do more than scratch the surface and confirm for myself that—if I’m allowed a groan-worthy pun—Louisville is no onetrick pony. Judging by visitor numbers, I’m not the only one whose curiosity has been piqued. The city set new tourism records in 2019 and has been steadily building momentum in the post-peak-pandemic reopening, even as entrepreneurs and developers have taken advantage of the downtime to reboot, refocus, and reimagine their next chapters. So, with a lengthy list of leads and a long weekend to fill, I made arrangements to meet up with my mom in Derby City and see what else it has to offer first-time visitors in 2022. Here’s what we uncovered.

Getting Set Up