Upward Trajectory

Crisp and aromatic, California Sauvignon Blanc is surging in quality

- MARYANN WOROBIEC

California Sauvignon Blanc remains as popular as ever, fueled by outstanding wines at reasonable prices. The category is a consistent source for fresh and fragrant white wines that pair well with a variety of foods and settings, yielding dozens of bottlings that emphasize the range of styles to choose from. There’s consistency from vintage to vintage and relatively affordable prices compared with similar quality wines made from other white grapes in the Golden State.

Looking at the 60-plus wines that rated 90 points or higher in my blind tastings since my previous report (“Sauvignon Blanc, California Style,” April 30, 2022), you can see impressive diversity among the top-scorers. In fact, the range of expressions is even more pronounced than in previous years.

The rich Greive Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Double Eagle 2020 (94 points, $50) shows lanolin and honeysuckle notes, while Shared Notes delivers two distinctive offerings: the Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley Les Pierres Qui Décident 2021 (94, $75) features saline and dried ginger, and the Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Russian River Valley Les Leçons des Maîtres 2021 (93, $75) offers a note of honey-drizzled melon. The aromatic Quintessa Sauvignon Blanc NapaSonoma Counties Illumination 2021 (93, $55) is among this report’s most memorable wines, a credit to winemaker Rebekah Wineburg.

There are many more wines worth highlighting from my recent tastings, yet none more notable than the Companion Wine Co. Sunny B Oliver’s Vineyard Edna Valley 2021 (90, $11 for a 375ml can), the best canned expression I’ve seen of the grape—and the first canned wine to make Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 list.