PRIDE & PROGRESS

Building on pillars set down during the pandemic, restaurants are more creative and inclusive than ever

- CASSIA SCHIFTER

When Jen Ziskin, wine director at the restaurant Punch Bowl in Brookline, Mass., thought about how to appeal to a wider circle of customers for her establishment, she looked to history. "While I V was reading about the taverns in the late 1800s, I found repeated references to female innkeepers and barmaids. It was a respectable job for women to have back then." In those days, most wines would have been served in inns and taverns, and many of those businesses were staffed by women, who were barred from many other professions.

Ziskin thought, how better to celebrate these hospitality workers and also engage customers in conversation about the wine list? So she built an entire wine list of women winemakers, producers, and vineyard managers. "My list is set up so the woman's name is first and that is followed by the name of the wine."

Amid the chaos and uncertainty of a lingering pandemic, many restaurants have done the opposite of backing down. They are innovating and welcoming new customers. We are thrilled at the chance to honor them for their achievements and perseverance. This year, 3,169 restaurants earned one of Wine Spectator's three awards for their commitment to all things wine.

The Award of Excellence is given to establishments offering thoughtfully chosen lists containing both quality and diverse selections that are compatible with the restaurant's style and menu. Generally, these lists average around 100 options but can be much larger. This year, 1,782 restaurants received an Award of Excellence.