When Dawn Turns To Dusk

Saint Laurent's artistic director Anthony Vaccarello looks towards using spectacle in search of Yves Saint Laurent's original intention by hosting the Spring/Summer '23 menswear collection in Marrakesh, Morocco the city that changed the life of the House's founder.

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Anthony Vaccarello's initial collections for Saint Laurent wore a love for 1960s rock and roll on their sleeve. Moving from extensive A subculture references and punk reinterpretations to his love for youth rebellion, the artistic director synthesised his influences into presentations of what can only be accurately described as the late 2010s definition of "effortless cool". From developing motorcycle jackets that took on ideas of couture to skinny jeans that carried the attitude of rockstars, Vaccarello outfitted the scene with an allure that made an impression so closely associated with Saint Laurent that it became tough to look beyond a meticulous rock and roll frame of mind. But with a series of regenerative changes illustrated in the last few seasons, Vaccarello has entered a phase of reinventions - one that has supplemented the house with glimpses of Yves Saint Laurent's designs spun entirely with the same unfussy, nonchalant execution from collections of the 1960s to 1980s that lingers as the House's strongest flaunt. It wa