Food Is Like Fashion

Chef extraordinaire Bill Granger on being inspired by Japan’s visual culture, what he learnt from his butcher father and grandfather, and his favorite Bills branches including the latest opening in Ginza.

- Catherine Ramshaw

Moving away from a focus on laidback breakfasts, Bills recently opened a smart new branch in downtown Ginza, marking their seventh opening in Japan (fourth in Tokyo). Although you can still tuck into the signature creamy scrambled eggs and ricotta pancakes, there’s plenty more to look forward to here, including delights such as lobster linguine, yellow fish curry, wagyu burgers, and even a high tea menu. We met up with the man behind the brand, Bill Granger, in London to chat about his transition from artist to restaurateur, how his gap year in Japan influenced his style, and how he pushes people out of their food comfort zones.

ONE OF YOUR FIRST LOVES WAS ART. WHAT ROLE DOES VISUAL ART STILL PLAY IN HOW YOU PREPARE YOUR MENUS AND PLAN YOUR RESTAURANTS? 

I started life as an art student, first studying architecture, then I changed over to fine arts, and I think for me the creative vision is always the start of everything. I’m excited by the visual; so whether it’s the way that food looks or the interiors of the restaurant, it’s the whole presentation. Restaurants are such a visual experience, so it’s still really important to me.

CAN YOU TELL ME MORE ABOUT THE TRANSITION YOU MADE FROM AN ARTIST WHO WAS WAITING TABLES TO OPENING YOUR FIRST RESTAURANT? WERE THERE ANY REALLY PIVOTAL MOMENTS?