TRANSFORMING TEMPRANILLO

Over-zealous planting and heavy-handed use of oak haven’t done its reputation any favours, but Spain’s most widespread variety can make excellent wines. Sarah Jane Evans MW highlights the regions and producers helping Tempranillo reach its full potential

- Sarah Jane Evans MW

To begin with a confession: when I started to study blind tasting, Tempranillo was the one red variety that I could rarely spot. Even now I sometimes have to circle round it and eliminate all the others first. Syrah, yes, Cabernet Sauvignon, always, Merlot and Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, no problem. I can even make a calculated guess at Nerello Mascalese. The problem – for me at least – is that Tempranillo is Spain’s most widely planted red, and has many different profiles. Since Spain is a mountainous country, with season several sides, significant rivers and a mix of soils, there is exceptional diversity. No wonder the fruit character varies. Fresh cherry? Morello cherry? Cherry jam? Plum? Blackcurrant? Then there’s its savory character: sweet spices, a slightly leathery feel, sometimes leafy. There can be a fine freshness too.

Unfortunately, the defining clue, the evidence for the prosecution, was always oak: American oak, and lots of it. If you could spot coconutty American oak, then you were home and dry. It was safely Spanish, likely Rioja, and therefore had to be Tempranillo – even if it had other varieties in the blend. I say ‘unfortunately’ because this narrow view of Spain as ‘Tempranillo + oak’ still sticks, even though the winemaking has changed greatly. Further, this sweeping vision of Spain as dominated, unimaginatively, by Tempranillo is as damaging for the reputation of Spain’s wine industry as it is for Tempranillo itself.