Why India must uphold stringent standards in cosmetics

With rising affluence and the influence of the Instagram generation, India’s demand for cosmetics has witnessed an unprecedented boom. This surge in interest is no longer confined to the affluent, but has permeated the middle and even lower-middle segments of the market. The sector has seen a proliferation of blockbuster direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands and startups, each eager to capture a share of this expanding market. As more small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and startups vie for attention, it is crucial that consumers are not misled by substandard products or exaggerated claims. Ensuring the highest quality and safety of cosmetics is paramount, and this responsibility falls squarely on the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), the apex body regulating industry specifications.

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However, BIS now faces a significant threat from those advocating the replacement of its time-tested vertical standards with a broad, horizontal approach. If implemented, this shift would not only affect the domestic cosmetics industry, it would result in substandard products coming into the market, at cost to the customer. It is essential that India upholds its stringent, product-specific standards to protect both its industry and consumers.India’s existing vertical standards, meticulously crafted by the BIS, operate under the stringent regulations laid out in the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, and the Cosmetic Rules, 2020, and are designed to safeguard the quality, safety, and performance of cosmetic products. BIS standards—such as IS 2888 for toilet soaps, IS 13498 for bathing bars, and IS 4199 for liquid soaps—have been carefully crafted to meet the specific needs of the Indian market. These standards are product-specific, ensuring that each category of cosmetics — from soaps to skincare and haircare — meet the requirements tailored to their unique formulations. This approach has not only nurtured consumer trust but also fostered the growth of a vibrant, homegrown cosmetics industry, especially