SANDS OF TIME

EXPLORING EGYPT'S WONDERS BEYOND THE GREAT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA

- NABIHA TASNIM

FOR MANY YEARS, I ASSOCIATED EGYPT WITH THE Great Pyramid of Giza. But as I read more about the country, I got drawn to the saltwater lakes of Siwa, viewing Luxor from a hot-air balloon, and diving with dugongs along the Red Sea coast. And so, my solo trip to Egypt revolved around these experiences. I began with Siwa.

Tucked away in the western end of Egypt, along the border with Libya, Siwa's main draw is its crystal-clear, emerald-green saltwater lakes, where the high salinity (almost 95 per cent) makes it impossible for one to sink.

Siwa came as a promised land, offering a chance to disconnect from the world and reconnect with myself. I stayed at Talist Siwa, a completely off-the-grid property built over a decade by architect Nabila Aziz and her family. Talist is a self-sustaining home with a private natural pool. It's surrounded by the Dakrour mountain range and has incredible views of the Siwa Lake.

Hosts Ihab and Lydia took me to a hot water spring and offered me a hydrotherapy session. They also invited me to a community iftar meal, where I tasted bazin (a bread-like Libyan dish prepared using barley flour) and kishk (a traditional yogurt-based Lebanese soup).

From Siwa, I made my way to Luxor. Home to over 100 tombs and one-third of the world's ancient monuments, Luxor is a portal to a bygone era. I chanced upon Bab Al Samawy, meaning "doorway to heaven," a boutique stay located right next to the takeoff ground for the hot-air balloon.