ON THE GRID

THE VIBRANT MADRAS CHECKS, NATIVE TO SOUTHEASTERN INDIA, HAS NOT JUST TRANSCENDED BORDERS BUT ALSO TRADITIONS AND STYLES

- NEETI JAYCHANDER

IN SOUTHEASTERN INDIA, A VIBRANT fabric has thrived for almost 900 years, long before it was given its moniker in the 1600s—befittingly after the romantic seaside city of its birth. With its origins in present-day Chennai, "Madras checks" has transcended borders and encountered a glorious global trajectory that continues to adapt. As far back as the 12th century, Madras Checks were worn by the fisherfolk and peasant community of coastal Madraspatnam (later Madras) as a lungi or a local sarong.

Ajay Agarwal, a second-generation entrepreneur and the owner of RK Industries, which has exported authentic Madras checks to global brands, explains, "Madras checks is a miracle lightweight cotton fabric with a plaid design, perfect for the hot, humid climate of the city. Madras checks can be single or multi-coloured, symmetrical or asymmetrical, and big repeat or small repeat designs. 'Bleeding Madras' became a rage during the late '60s and early '70s; every time you washed this colourful fabric, it would bleed because of its handdyed nature, and the colours would change."

But much before "Bleeding Madras" was coined sometime in the last century, the fabric found its way to the Middle East and Northern/Western Africa in the 1300s and was known as "Injiri," meaning "real India."

"In fact, for centuries, African brides would have their gowns fashioned out of Madras checks for the added allure of a 'foreign' fabric," says Chennaibased heritage revivalist and influencer Shalini Muthukumar.