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A haven away from the sun seekers and golf tourists

Western Daily Press

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November 22, 2025

Martin Hesp explores a side of the Algarve which is less well known by holidaymakers

- Martin Hesp

Some places have a kind of instant reputation - you hear the name and straight away you think of the things for which they've become renowned. In the case of this article, I'm talking about the golf courses and beach resorts of Portugal's Algarve. And if this theory needed any proof, I can tell you that my flight from Bristol last week was filled with golfers and seekers of winter sunshine.

Nothing wrong with that. If you've got it, flaunt it. I don’t play golf, but I'm sure the Algarve has some great courses - as for good beaches, the south west corner of Portugal has some of the best in Europe. But, the Algarve is about far more than just 18 holes and seaside resorts.

It has countryside. A lot of very beautiful countryside, as it turns out - swathes of which are rarely visited by tourists. Which is the reason I was there last week.

The Algarve tourist board sent me an invitation which basically said: “Come and find out about life off the beaten track. Yes, we are internationally-renowned for our tourism offer, but we'd like people to know about our countryside which, out of the heat of high season, is wonderful for walking.”

In recent times the Algarve has inaugurated not one, but five annual walking festivals. I was there to take part in one of them, based in the village of Barão de São João, and also to enjoy other hikes in the region.

Barão de São João is a rather artistic and bohemian community located inland from the popular coastal town of Lagos. It’s a lovely place, known for its rustic beauty and tranquil atmosphere, and the surrounding area is perfect for hiking and biking. The neighbouring Mata Nacional de Barão de São João (National Forest) lends itself to nature walks and the village is well known for art festivals and a popular monthly flea market.

I liked the place. It reminded me of several laidback rural communities I know in California.

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