Whatever happened to good old 'urraca'?

Beloved for its refreshing cashew flavour in the peak of summer, 'urraca' today has become a victim of its own success

- Priyanko Sarkar

'Urraca' is the first distillate of the cashew fruit; (right) an 'urraca' cocktail at Cavatina.

On a warm March afternoon in north Goa, Nimish Gupta settled down at a taverna to try some urraca, the cashew drink that has come to define summers in the sunshine state. The 52-year-old software developer from Bengaluru has been visiting Goa for the past 15 years, and knows his way around with the local life.

"It tasted off. I usually prefer drinking at tavernas because they know their drink and there's a certain thrill of having it as the locals do, and that is without adding any soda, chillies or Limca," says Gupta, who was in Goa last month.

Beloved for its refreshing cashew flavour in the peak of summer, urraca today has become a victim of its own success. For the uninitiated, urraca is the first distillate of the cashew fruit that is turned into feni, Goa's most popular spirit. It is mild and fruity with a lower ABV of around 15-20%, and is available only during summers when the cashew fruit ripens. It is naturally fermented and has no additives. Urraca also has a relatively short shelf life, and has to be ideally consumed within two weeks of distillation. It is typically enjoyed in a simple serve, topped with Limca or soda water, and lime. It can also be turned into a highball with a split chilli for a spice kick.

Urraca has always been a favourite among locals as well as regular visitors. However, the pandemic supercharged its demand with the state's latest bars discovering a new spirit category to sell cocktails. The growing number of domestic tourists and work-from-home professionals turned Goa into a kind of extended holiday home. At the same time, a crop of high-end bars opened to cater to them. Together, they created a new audience for a local spirit that had until then been known as "jungle juice".