Tavernas and toddy shops get gentrified

Reimagined permit rooms elevate the food, drink and community vibe of dive bars for a new generation

- Sayoni Bhaduri

During the 1970s, restaurants in Maharashtra had to segregate alcohol-serving areas from the rest of the dining space or family room. As a patron, one needed a permit from the state government to drink in these "permit rooms".

"In contrast, quarter bars, which catered primarily to male patrons and served only chakna (bar snacks), developed a seedier reputation," says Aditya Hegde, co-founder of Permit & Co in Mumbai. On the other hand, Goan tavernas were neighbourhood watering holes that catered to different working communities—the ones near the beach were for fisherfolk, those near the fields were for farmers, in coconut groves for toddy tappers, and so on. They generally served feni and seasonal urrak as the main tipple. In Kerala, kallu shaaps are where toddy tappers hand over their vats of freshly fermented toddy for people to relish after a long day's labour.

Restaurateurs across India are now reviving and reinventing traditional toddy shops, permit rooms and tavernas, transforming these hyperlocal bars into trendy destinations. By modernising classic drinks and dishes, they're not just celebrating regional heritage, but also making communal experiences fun and relevant to a new generation.