Glorious old-school soul food

The sign points to the legendary Bell's Diner, but it's the Stockbridge Eating House that dazzles Gaby Soutar

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I have to fess up. I'd never been to the iconic Bell's Diner-the burger joint that was on Edinburgh's St Stephen Street for five decades, but closed last year.

However, after the owners packed up and retired, and before the last patty off its grill had fully chilled, this institution had transformed into the trendy Stockbridge Eating House, and, here I am, scuttling straight along.

I'm sorry, I'm just not a burger fan. This place is much more up my strasse.

Still, I feel guilty about that, as an Edinburgh local, especially as its old green sign is still hanging above the door.

My lack of previous experience means I can't tell you how much it's changed.

All that I can say is that it doesn't smell like fried onions, and it's painted fresh white, with bistrostyle check tablecloths, pillar candles, paper napkins and menus chalked on boards.

The eatery is owned by Dale Mailley, of Edinburgh restaurants The Lookout and Gardener's Cottage, both of which I loved and have sadly now closed. I guess this place, which sits 18 covers, is a more manageable size, with rows of communal tables and a couple pour deux at the window. We bagged one of those.