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THE WEST KERNOW WAY

BBC Countryfile Magazine

|

June 2023

Explore Cornwall's mysterious ancient monuments, wild moorlands and sparkling beaches. Georgie Duckworth rides the rugged tracks and sleepy lanes of Britain's most exciting new cycling route

- Georgie Duckworth

THE WEST KERNOW WAY

On a spring day, you might expect Kynance Cove, one of Cornwall's iconic landmarks, to be bustling with people. But as we cycled along the bridleway,  accompanied by gentle birdsong and the salty smell of the sea breeze, there wasn't a soul in sight. Just a cuckoo calling in the distance - the first one I'd heard that year.

As our bikes bounced along the rutted, grassy path, an adder slithered urgently away ahead of me. In excitement at this rare sight, I turned to call back to my sister. The sun had just broken through an eerie sea-mist and I could now see the spectacular backdrop of Kynance's Asparagus Rock towering behind her. If I hadn't been about to wobble off my bike, I would have pinched myself to check it was all real.

Moments like these, cycling through Cornwall's beautiful scenery, surrounded by wildlife yet distanced from the throng of tourism, encapsulate the West Kernow Way. This 230km route around West Cornwall is the latest adventure devised by charity Cycling UK. The largely off-road loop was launched in September 2021 as a new way to experience both Cornwall's familiar and less well-known sights on two wheels.

The trail is a cleverly linked blend of quiet country lanes, cycle paths and bridleways one minute pedalling over a grassy moor, the next tackling a rocky descent. You may spend a morning passing crumbling engine houses and tin mines and the afternoon cruising through sleepy fishing villages with hidden coves to explore.

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